MALTA ROCK CLIMBING

MALTA ROCK CLIMBING

CODLING JOHN WARRINGTON ANDREW

  • Titolo: MALTA ROCK CLIMBING
  • ISBN: 9789993205401
  • Pagine: 384
  • Dimensioni: 15 X 21
  • Tipologia: Libri
  • Anno di pubblicazione: 2007

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Malta Rock Climbing the comprehensive guide is the definitive guide book to rock climbing in the Maltese islands. It was published 20 years after Malta New Climbs came out. A total of 1,275 climbing routes are described (of which 337 are in Gozo and 11 on Comino) and illustrated using attractive colour photo-topos. The book includes road maps, approach diagrams, very useful crag symbols (similar to Rockfax) and is interspersed with dramatic colourful climbing photographs. The routes described are spread over a period of the last 60 years of local climbing, from the Second World War right until the end of 2006. Most of the climbing routes described in the previous guide books Walks and Climbs in Malta, Rock Climbing in Malta and Malta New Climbs plus all the new routes on log have been compiled into this great comprehensive guide book. There is a diverse range of climbing grades, giving the beginner, intermediate or advanced climber a varied choice of climbs in over 30 different climbing areas. There are five main styles of climbing which include the following:

Traditional: 984 single pitch traditional routes are described, the hardest being the three star classic The Crossing (E7 6c, French 8a), a 23 metre desperate steep wall and roof put up by John Moulding in 1999. There are routes both over the sea and inland in valleys and on rock outcrops. The grading used is the British adjectival/technical system, e.g. HVS 5a, E2 5b, etc.

Sport: 98 sport (bolted) single pitch routes are described, the cream of them all being Chasin` the Dream (French 7b), a 22 metre overhanging prow at Mgarr Ix-Xini in Gozo done in 1987 by John Moulding. Most of the routes are inland, however a few clip ups exist over the sea. The grading used is the French system, e.g. 6a, 7a+, etc.

Multi-pitch: 63 multi-pitch traditional routes are described for those who like to get really high, the all time classic being Continuation Wall (EI 5b), a 92 metre sea slab out on the Zurrieq sea cliffs, put up by Corporal Zeke Deacon R.M. way back in 1953. Most of these climbs are over the sea and consist of two or three pitches. The grading used is same as Traditional.

Bouldering: 78 bouldering problems are described for boulder clingers. The highest grade attained so far is V8, with Sombrero at Victoria Lines and Tlieta Cisk at Ghajn Ghabdul in Gozo, put up by Jeffrey Camilleri in 1998 and Cesar Vergara in 2004 respectively. The grading used is the American Hueco system , e.g. V0+, V4, etc.

Deep water soloing & sea level traversing: 31 deep water solos and 21 sea level traverses are described above the blue Med. The real classic is the three star DWS route Silent Warrior, 18 metres (E6 6b, S0) soloed by Jeffrey Camilleri and the most desperate is Superior Entity, 24 metres (E7 6c, S3) soloed by Crispin Waddy, both put up in 1999 near Ghar Hasan. The grading system used is the British descriptive with the 'S' grade.

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